It's the reason I go to bed before it's fully dark
and wake up before dawn.
It's why the prevailing winds are my preferred topic of conversation
and a wetsuit my most consistent fashion statement.
It's the one thing I have that I don't actually own
because it owns me.
It's the next wave and it's mine.
Before I moved to Australia, my crazy Bulgarian friend gave me a an envelope and told me to open it in the plane. Somewhere above the Indian ocean, I tore open the envelope to find a selection of quotes to inspire me on my journey. What a girl she is. This was my favourite one. It displayed a mindset that I so admired and hoped that I'd one day achieve. Now, it's my life.
You may recognise this poster from the latest Surfer Girl magazine. I ripped it out, a little too hastily as you can see, and tipp-exed on the quote. Now these words grace my wall every day and remind me of the journey on which I've come.